Colorado's back roads---the San Juan Skyway

Back Story Tours explores for Gold

2011-09-11T11:21:00.000-07:00

BackStory Tours explores for Gold in Colorado’s High Country. There’s a short window when the firstaspen leaves begin turning pale yellow and acres of aspen trees begin explodinginto bright gold, burnished copper and orange. Back Story Tours captures thefall colors in trips guaranteed to showcase the drama of fall color in amajestic setting.

BackStory Tours begins at the Top of The Rockies in 10, 200 foot Leadville,Colorado home of the fabled Mineral Belt Trail, Colorado’s highest and mostspectacular paved cycling trail. We cycle the Mineral Belt Trail clockwise, traveling the steepest partfirst with astounding views of snow-capped Mt. Elbert and Mt. Massive, two ofthe highest 14ers in Colorado. Aswe cycle, we stop to view historic California and Slaughterhouse Gulches, theYak Tunnel, the site of Oro City, named for the abundance of gold found here,then it’s on to Blind Tom and Iron Mines and the Pyrenees Mine circlingLeadville while stopping to learn the history of the area.

FromLeadville, Back Story Tours travels South to Twin Lakes, two naturally-glaciallakes at the base of Colorado’s Highest peak, Mt. Elbert. We rent kayaks andcanoes for the short paddle to the restored and historic 1880’s resort Interlaken-----onceone of the most attractive tourist resorts in Colorado. The hotel complex wasstarted in 1879 and enlarged after James V. Dexter bought the lakeside resortand grounds in 1883. The resort became a popular summer retreat for those thatrode the train to a stop nearby and then took a short ride by stage or carriageto the south side of Twin Lakes. The resort was a popular stop for those on theway over Independence pass or nearby mining communities Today’s Interlaken isrestored and great fun to wander through the historic hotels and cabins nearthe shores of Twin Lakes.

Leaving Twin Lakes, BackStory Tours ascends 12,000 foot Independence Pass the site of 2011’s USA ProCycling Challenge and descends past the ghost town of Independence at10,900. In 1879 Independenceboasted 40 businesses and 1500 residents, but today is a hikeable ghost town.

Into Aspen we roll for anevening of wine tasting at the Snowmass Wine Festival and Aspen’s legendarywatering holes and bistros. Thenext day, we drive 12 miles up the Castle Creek Valley to the silver miningghost town of Ashcroft, The 1930s saw a new flurry ofinterest in this ghost town. This time it was the Olympics and winter sportsthat drew attention to Ashcroft. Soon afterwards Stuart Mace brought his familyand dog sled operation to the ghost town. In 1955 Mace and his Toklat huskieswere featured in the TV series, Sgt Preston of the Yukon, and Ashcroft was usedas a set for the filming of the series. Mace later devoted the remainder of hislife to protecting the area from development and restoring the ecology, He wasjoined in that effort in 1975 by the Aspen Historical Society who helped putAshcroft on the National Register of Historic Places. While wandering through this restored ghost town, Back StoryTours also offers the delights of lunch at the nearby Pine Creek Cookhouse setamidst the staggering views of Pearl Pass and Castle Peak, further up theCastle Creek Valley.

Out of Aspen, over McClure Pass to the junction of the dirt road which crosses Kebler and OhioPasses, Back Story Tours journeys through the single largest stand of aspen inthe state. Our dirt road wanders through mile after mile of gold as we ascendto Lake Irwin and the junction with the Ohio Pass Road. The road descends into the historic coalmining town and ski area of Crested Butte, listed on the National Register ofHistoric Towns. We love to takeguests to the Burning of the Grump, a festival which culminates in the burningof a huge metal structurestuffed with everyone’s written complaints from the past year. At a blazingbonfire accompanied by song and dance, the Grump is destroyed in a pyrotechnicblaze.

Stillfurther south on our Back Story Tours adventure, we drive to Durango to ridethe Durango to Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad from Durango’s 6700 footelevation to Silverton at 9300 feet. A three and one half hour rolling trip through the highcountry blaze of glory along cliffs that plummet to the Animas River far below,the Durango to Silverton Narrow Gauge is the premier train excursion for fallcolor. We roll intoSilverton in time for lunch at Natalia’s 1912, a former early 20^thcentury bordello where today the ladies of the evening are long gone but thewild west dirt streets and mining town rowdiness survives. After lunch, Back Story Tours takesguests for a short hike to the Christ of the Mines Shrine high above the townof Silverton.

Journeying onin our quest for gold beneath the shadows of the Mesa Verde Plateau, pastDolores and the Anasazi Heritage Center, we begin the ascent through some ofColorado’s finest and most inaccessible wilderness, finally climbing to theLizard Head Pass summit and trailhead, where we always stop for a breathtakingphoto op of Lizard Head, the most dangerous and difficult climb in Coloradobecause of its rotten, crumbling rock.

Telluride isour destination for the day along with a free, cool, wind-powered TellurideGondola Ride from the town of Telluride, named for its tellurium mining days,up to Telluride Mountain Village, famed for its steeps and deeps skiing. Our views encompass gold on the lowerslopes of Palmyra Peak and the snow capped summits of the 14,000 foot WilsonRange. Another optionalexploration in Telluride is the four mile hike to 365 foot Bridal Veil Falls,the tallest free-falling cascades in Colorado.

Come hike,bike, kayak and ride the byways and back roads of Colorado. Discover gold withBack Story Tours. We take you onthe back roads to learn the story behind the story.

Back Story Tours

2011-02-19T11:50:00.001-08:00

We know you're thinking about warm weather, red rock canyon country and warm temps, think about Back Story Tours. It's cool. It's a custom tour company featuring hiking, cycling and trekking trips that take you to our country’s most dramatic and awe-inspiring destination. We are all about the story behind the story of the American West.

Wanna Walk? Hike? Bike? Kayak? We do it all in some of the Southwest's most drop dead gorgeous spots. Everything from Camping to cycling to hiking and exploring

We're Leave No Trace Certified and committed to a green ethic for all our adventures. We focus on personalized trips which allow you the time to savor your experience and meet your fellow adventurers in an intimate and personal setting. We're very different from many other adventure travel companies because we make sure of a very high guide to traveler ratio.

Diverse trips, Yes. Reasonable prices. Without a doubt.

Count on small support vehicles, not mega motor coaches. Look forward to B & B’s or campsites with a behind the rocks personality. Meals and lodging are more flavorful and feature distinctive local cuisines and locally grown produce and meats, fish or poultry. Buying local has long been one of our commitments to providing good food on our trips.

Travel with Back Story Tours. Get the adventure of a lifetime. Get the story behind the story.

www.backstorytours.com Begin the journey of your lifetime.

Ruess and Rimbaud. Vagabonds for Beauty.

2009-04-27T12:10:00.000-07:00

If you know and love the Red Rock Canyon country of southern Utah and northern Arizona, you're like me in always remembering that one of its unsung heroes is 21 year old Everett Ruess, lost on a quest for beauty and adventure since November 11, 1934.

Walking south out of Escalante, Utah, Ruess wandered down the Hole in the Rock Trail towards what is today's Lake Powell. And was never heard from again.

Until noted author David Roberts, writing in National Geographic's Adventure Magazine, revealed a brand new tale on an old mystery.

In November 1934, Ruess sent a last letter from Escalante, Utah to his brother Waldo in California. It read. "It may be a month or two before I have a post office, for I am exploring southward to the Colorado, where no one lives."

Four months later a search party was mounted after Ruess' parents received their letters they had sent Ruess. All were unclaimed. The 1935 Searchers found a brush corral with two burros, a bridle, halter and rope. It was presumed that Ruess walked south down Davis Gulch. Oddly, the searchers didn't find his painter's tools or his journal that he kept religiously.

Over the past 70 years, hundreds of Ruess devotees have tried to find Everett's remains, his memory, his essence, tramping across the red rock wilderness, touching beauty and the adventure that Ruess' life symbolized to many. Songs have been written, Ruess featured strongly in Jon Krakauer's Into the Wild. Every September, there's an Escalante, Utah Arts festival which features as its logo Ruess' wood block engraving of himself with two burros. The documentary film "Lost Forever" assumes that Ruess will never be found.

While other desert fugitives, like The Big Bend's Burro Lady and Thong Man, have come and gone, Ruess lives on in many people's day dreams. Like Arthur Rimbaud, the French surrealist boy-poet whose Season in Hell is on the list for any passionate wanderer, Ruess' posthumous On Desert Trails with Everett Ruess has become a major book in the quest for beauty.

Although decades and worlds apart, Everett Ruess and Arthur Rimbaud resonate with us because they were so young when they did their best work. Both were poets who became seers or seekers by undergoing an inordinately intense existence.

Before they were both 21, they each wrote some of the finest poetry and prose of their time. Ruess in the Utah desert of the Dine. Rimbaud in the avant garde, Libertine Paris of the early 1870's.

Rimbaud wrote his best known works, A Season in Hell and The Drunken Boat while still in his late teens, similar to Everett Ruess' meticulously kept notebooks filled with letters to his parents and brother and watercolors of the canyons he traveled through.

Victor Hugo described Rimbaud as "an infant Shakespeare". His words still resound from the pages of a poem like A Song from the Highest Tower,

"O my eternal soul

Hold fast to desire

In spite of the night

And the day on Fire."

Ruess is a seeker of beauty in the West. But part of him reminds me of Rimbaud. He even changed his name to the French "Lan Rameau" for part of his short life. His other nom de plume was NEMO, in a tribute to Jules Verne or to the Latin translation, "no man."

In Everett Ruess Wilderness Journals published in 1990, we find

"Say that I starved, that I was lost and weary.

That I was burned and blinded by the desert sun.

Footsore, thirsty sick with strange diseases;

Lonely and wet and cold, but that I kept the dream."

Unlike Ruess, Rimbaud managed to live through a haze of hashish and absinthe until the ripe old age of 37, but like the Vagabond for Beauty, Rimbaud remained a prolific letter-writer all his life. Rimbaud as a restless soul, travelled and wrote extensively on three continents before his premature death from cancer less than a month after his 37th birthday.

What both searched for was beauty. Both thought of beauty in ideally romantic terms. Both were obsessed with the single-mindedness of the pursuit.

Which brings us around to those who follow Everett Ruess today.

Just this past year, explorers and Dine found a European body. And it's been found not far from Utah's sandstone spine, the Comb Ridge.

Ruess once wrote, "And when it comes time to die, I'll find the wildest loneliest, most desolate spot there is."

It could be that he did. The original witness to this desert mayhem is an elderly Navajo man who as his grandson tells the story was sitting on Utah's Comb Ridge looking down into the depths of Chinle Wash. Splendidly isolated country back then and it still is today. What the elderly Navajo man saw is the beginning of the full circle of the Everett Ruess mystery.

The old Navajo witnessed a young man with two burros ride up and down the wash and then get attacked by Ute Indians. Knocking him off his mule and taking his mules and pack, the Utes rode off leaving him in the Wash to die.

The young man was buried in a crevice in Comb Ridge, only to be found in 2008 by Denny Bellson, the elderly Navajo's grandson. The news of a European skeleton and skull traveled like a dust-devil throughout the small group of Ruess seekers who continue to be fascinated by the body on Navajo lands.

Many think it might be Ruess.

Certainly, David Roberts and the National Geographic Adventure team do.

Others like reporter, Paul Foy, question how Ruess could have crossed the Colorado

River with two fully-laden burros.

DNA samples have been sent to Ruess' nephews and nieces. And with the help of forensic anthropologists at University of Colorado, many feel the mystery has been resolved.

Or maybe the mystery remains if you're like me and don't want Nemo found. Lan Rameau will always continue to be part of the beauty of the desert Southwest. His soul, story and passion will inspire, color and enchant wanderers yet to come.

Whether he found the beauty he was looking for is undisputed. What his last thoughts were as he walked into the desert, we can glimpse. Ruess was living the Navajo Beauty chant, " In Beauty I walk, with beauty before me. In Beauty I walk with beauty behind me. In beauty I walk. It is done."

The Vagabond for Beauty has spoken from the wilderness. "When I go, I leave no trace." Except maybe he did.

Death Valley Daze

2009-04-12T10:26:00.000-07:00

I always liked Death Valley Days. My father used to listen to it on radio before it ever came on TV. I thought the 20 Mule Team Borax ads were great even though I didn't know what the laundry additive Borateem actually did. Mostly though I liked seeing the land that was Death Valley and the plots of authentic stories of the American West. The Old Ranger, Stanley Andrews was one of my early 60's TV favorites. You had to love his authentic, gruff personality; too bad he got replaced by Ronnie Reagan in 1965. That year also saw the writing become flimsier and not as authentic as the original episodes, of which there were 558, maybe the most successful syndicated Western on TV. Other hosts included Australian actor Robert Taylor and Dale Robertson along with narration by none other than Country fiddler Merle Haggard. Perhaps the most haunting part of DV Days was the memorable theme music and of course the scenery in the lowest and hottest place in the Lower 48. I thought about all this as I climbed the Stovepipe Wells Sand dunes, used as a location Star Wars for the tiny jawas on the planet Tattoine. I also wondered if we'd see any sidewinders, always my favorite snake ever since Walt Disney's Death Valley desert movies. No sidewinders but plenty of kit fox, coyote, kangaroo rat and chuckwalla lizard tracks. Mostly, I thought about Peter O'Toole pointing towards "Aqaba," as he pushed through the desert trying to beat Anthony Quayle and the British regiment to the port city on the Gulf of Aqaba. The lowest place in the lower Forty Eight at 282 feet below sea level, with a two mile vertical rise to Telescope Peak towering over the Badlands Salt Flats at 11,049. Records told the tale of summer scorchers when the temperatures were 120 F plus while on top of Telescope Peak it was 50 or 60 degrees cooler. Talk about extremes. Extremes are the appeal of Death Valley. That and millions of wildflowers, jumbles of green, orange and gold rocks, snowy summits over the valley and evening silence under moonrise. With the addition of 1.3 million acres in 1994, DV became the biggest national park in the lower Forty Eight.

Ten years ago we drove through the newly added portion on the road from Big Pine, California into the northwest portion of Death Valley, following a paved road that turned to cracked tarmac, gravel, washed out gullies and finally a barely driveable track with huge holes that a car could easily disappear in. By the time we got to Crankshaft junction, we'd passed the Eureka Dunes and the 4 WD road to The Racetrack and Grandstand, where rocks skid across the desert playa at random. Six hours later, we rolled into the Grapevine Hills near Scotty's Castle, only to drive through a barricade with a sign facing the opposite direction. We turned to look at it as we hit the main Death Valley Road. The sign said

"Road closed."

Then there's the hike up Ubehebe Crater and Little Hebe Crater, a volcanic explosion that occurred only 2000 years ago, but today is covered with black cinders and ashes which become home to thousands of Golden Poppies in the spring. The explosion crater is half a mile wide and 700 feet deep. There was a Land Rover with French plates in the parking lot when we returned from hiking. Their map emblazoned on the side of the Land indicated that they had driven around the world and were on their last leg before returning to France. Their motto, "Jamais sans mon Land." It seemed to fit. We hoped that they would drive it on the 27 mile tortuous excuse for a road to The Racetrack, knowing that all the drivers who had done the trip had taken two extra tires in case their originals were chewed to shreds.

Wildflowers in the desert never fail to impress. Beavertail cactus with raspberry blossoms, Panamint daisies, Death Valley sunflowers, evening primrose, Death Valley milkvetch, Joshua trees, Spanish daggers, even the creosote bushes burst into yellow.

The extremes also include the endangered Pup Fish. There are only a few thousand left, relics of the Ice Age when the climate was wetter. Now found in Devil's Hole, a 500 foot deep cave where divers were going under to complete the second of three Pup Fish counts. We watched in awe as twelve biologists slipped into the 94 F degree water to disappear in the hole and count this 2.7 cm fish. Salt Creek Pup Fish are more visible from a boardwalk through the Pickleweed in the salt pan.

You think about a lot of thing while you're wandering the dunes in the desert sun, besides water, I couldn't quit humming Townes Van Zandt's Pancho & Lefty and the old Tehachapi to Tonopah lines of Commander Cody's Weed, Whites and Wine. I suppose because both towns are near and the lyrics work with all the mountains and gulches named for death and the Devil. The Funeral Mountains, The Devil's Golf Course, The Devil's Cornfield, Coffin Peak, and the most ironic Dante's View ----of Purgatory or Paradise?

2009-03-30T16:08:00.000-07:00

KOKE FM DJ's Playlists

2009-03-30T12:53:00.000-07:00

Legendary Austin Radio Station KOKE FM had a diverse set of dj's from 1975 until its demise in August 1977. Kicking off the 6 AM to 10 slot was Marty Manning. Ole Blue Eyes, Joe Gracey followed from 10 to 2PM. The hot tomato, little Kandy Kicker slid into the control room chair for afternoon drive. Steve Jaxon, continued revving the energy from 5 to 9. Skip Ducharme came roaring in at 9 PM and Dr. Dinger, The Good Doctor handled the turntables from midnight til 6AM. Weekends saw two of the most eclectic dj's Austin had ever heard on the airwaves, Nick "The Perfesser", Spitzer and Joe Nick Patoski, writing then for Rolling Stone and Pickin Up the Tempo. We're taking the time to lay out their favorite KOKE FM sets in these upcoming blogs. Here's the Good Doctor's 1) Dylan If Dogs Run Free 2) John Lee Hooker Lights Out 3) Bob Marley Rebel Music 4) Little Feat Rock & Roll Doctor 5) Memphis Minnie Me & My Chauffeur Blues 6) Bonnie Raitt's Sweet & Shiny Eyes 7) Sir Douglas Quintet She's About a Mover 8) Captain Beefheart Electricity 9) Alvin Crow Nyquil Blues 10) Peter Tosh Steppin Razor 11) Sonny Terry and Brownie Mc Gee Whoopin & Wailin.

The Good Doctor is editing an audio version of his KOKE FM all time favorite set. Watch and listen for it next week. Meantime, Send Ole Blue Eyes a cerveza or two. Kandy

Negro Bill Canyon

2009-03-24T14:14:00.000-07:00

Deep in the heart of red rock country Negro Bill Canyon runs up the Navajo Sandstone. A spectacular canyon with more desert varnish than an artist could paint, Negro Bill is named for mulatto rancher, herder and settler, William Granstaff. Hiking up canyon, we followed a clear stream crossing the water five or six times until we came to the junction of Negro Bill and Morning Glory Bridge box canyon. Up over the sandstone and into the box we move ending up face to face with the 6th biggest natural bridge in the U.S. High above, climbers are rappelling down the 250 foot precipice from Porcupine Rim mountain bike trail. We're in shadow looking up through the slim bit of blue sky through the bridge. Everett Ruess could have wandered through here in 1932. Edward Abbey did in 1965. It's a sanctuary on weekdays, but lots of hikers on spring weekends.